Superior Pho
Superior Pho, 3030 Superior Avenue East, Cleveland, Ohio 44114
www.superiorpho.com
Nestled in the rear entry of a building along Superior Avenue in the heart of Cleveland’s oft-overlooked AsiaTown neighborhood is the simply named, Superior Pho. Whether the double entendre was intentional or not, it's an apt moniker for one of the region’s best Vietnamese offerings.
Superior Pho isn’t the most intuitive restaurant to locate. However, once you find your way to the parking lot entrance and convince yourself you’re allowed to walk through the door, that it’s not some accidentally unlocked staff entrance to the larger building engulfing the tiny establishment which has zero outside presence, you’re in for a treat.
The entryway takes you into a long hallway arcade including a variety of shops, a sushi and Korean restaurant, and a few other joints. It has the vibe of the kind of hidden gem you're more likely to find in old school New York and other more tightly-packed east coast cities.
Immediately, I couldn’t help but reflect on the broad corridor of Superior Avenue’s treeless five lanes and the numerous swaths of parking lots and vacant spaces passed en route. You get a sense of the size of Cleveland of yore which would have necessitated this kind of arcade of eateries in a more walkable past where even storefronts along the main roads weren’t enough to accommodate pedestrians and neighborhood residents.
Superior Pho’s intimate dining room is a busy but comfortable escape.
Encased in glass like a gallery exhibition, the dining room is small and neat, bustling with conversation, hurried but friendly staff bringing big bowls in and out of the kitchen, and plenty of clinking and slurping. I lucked out as a party of one just as lunch rush was ending and was sat and ordered right away.
Be sure to take some time with the menu. The pho is obviously the star of the show here. There are many varieties to choose from, from tendon and meatball to chicken, brisket, and vegetable. There are plenty of items to explore though, from rice dishes and Bánh mì (Vietnamese sandwiches) to house specials, enticing combination plates, and a host of savory appetizers.
Being my first time, I kept it simple with a large #3, Phở tái chín (eye-round steak and brisket; $12.95), and appetizer #4A, Thịt nướng cuốn (summer rolls with grilled marinated pork, herbs, and vermicelli noodles, two per order; $5.95). It was admittedly way too much food, but I was possessed by some delusion I would take about half of it home (… I managed to leave with a one summer roll).
Thịt nướng cuốn (summer rolls with grilled marinated pork, herbs, and vermicelli noodles)
The rolls were a delight, fresh, bright, chewy, and served with a not overly-sweet sweet chili sauce. The phở was excellent. A delectably clear, thin broth that had all the subtle fragrance and rich, savory mouthfeel you hope from the best bowls of this soup served just hot enough that it was worth taking the time to add in the fresh crisp sprouts, Thai basil, and jalapeno. The beef was tender and fell apart easily with the subtle fat of the brisket melting into the broth and abundant noodles as I chewed.
Phở tái chín (eye-round steak and brisket)
While there is a certain bustling energy to Superior Pho, it was a cold day and I sipped hot tea while enjoying my meal and was never made to feel rushed. Chatting with the gentleman at the register, I learned he was a graduate of Bowling Green State University and had nice things to say about Toledo too. OHMI mission accomplished.
I highly recommend a visit and can’t wait to come back to work my way around the menu. Bún bò Huế (spicy noodle soup with herbs, beef, and pork) and Gỏi đu đủ khô bò (papaya salad with pork jerky) — I’m coming for you.
